Thursday, January 17, 2013

Honeymoon: Auckland, New Zealand

Travel Dates: December 4, 2012 to December 6, 2012

It is always raining in Auckland. It's like there's a giant rain cloud over the entire city, even in the summer, souring the weather and the moods of the rushy population with it. Seriously, we passed through this city 4 times along our trip, and it was raining every damn time. Auckland has got to be my least favorite New Zealand city. It's like a down-south version of the Silicon Valley in terms of bumper-to-bumper traffic, rude commuters, less-than-stellar customer service, and dismal RAIN to top it off. We passed by the not-too-impressive silhouette of Sky Tower against the sky line.

You can take a guided tour on the outside of Sky Tower's top rim with safety ropes and even skydive off its highest point
No food joints within walking distance of our hotel in Auckland, but a short drive led us to a downtown area with lots of restaurants. The painful part was parking and merging on the main street to get back to our hotel with the constant, oncoming cars.

Had this hand-made pizza baked in a brick oven

Tung's spaghetti
An hour's drive north of Auckland is Warkworth, home of Sheep World. They offer two showings of sheep-shearing/herd dogs a day, and you can freely browse the farm and eco-discovery trail on the vast land.


Sheep dyed pink in front of Sheep World



Tung with the wooden, Lego-like sheep

Interesting facts around the discovery center of Sheep World

Holy sheep! Never knew there were so many varieties.

Spectrum of sheep

Black sheep! Reminds me of my English-major self in my more math/science-oriented family.

The sheep-herding dogs, Coco (top) and Jess (bottom) rest between demos. Jess is a purebred, New-Zealand native sheep dog worth $5,000 NZD. Why do the sheep shearers pay so much for her? Because on her own, she could herd 300 sheep to their pens quickly so they could be sheared. Over a brief time, she more than earns her worth compared to hiring humans to do the round-up.

When the dogs are chained up, it's their cue to relax in between the hard work of running in the field and herding sheep. New Zealand law declares that a dog found on private property who is harassing farm animals can be legally shot by the land owner. Since their herding drive is so strong, chaining up the dogs when their owners cannot watch over them could also save their lives.


Our demonstrator, Rob, educates us on his sheep dogs. The shearers spend an enormous amount of time training their dogs each day. Instead of commands like, "Go left" or "Go right," each dog is taught a unique command with those intended meanings. For Jess, "Please" means "Go left," and "Thank you" means, "Go right." This is so the handlers could have 3-5 dogs in the field at once, herding an enormous amount of sheep, with each dog responding to his or her unique command so as not to be confusing. The sight and herd dogs work together, controlling the front and back of the flocks, nipping and barking to communicate with the sheep as to where to go. The handlers would also use different whistle tones to effectively drive the flocks.


Here comes the flock, after Jess successfully rounds them up. Being a young dog susceptible to ADD, she managed to chase around some geese before getting back down to business.
The sheep are marked by colors on their foreheads to give tourists a clear visual of how they are sorted. In reality, they are identified by the nocks on their ears, similar to branding on cows. They are led to individual pens based on gender, age, which farm they belong to, etc.



An audience member is recruited to sort the sheep into different pens based on their head color as the dogs drive them in. I could see why it would be a challenge since there's a stampede-like rush as the sheep are herded.



Next, Rob demonstrates how to shear a rather wooly sheep. Moccasins must be worn since the sharp shearing equipment cannot penetrate the tough skin.



Once a sheep gets on its back, it cannot get up without assistance (like a turtle!). Shearers use pressure points to help the sheep relax and stretch the skin taught during the shearing process so the animal comes out with minimal scratches. A sheep shearer who nicks too many sheep can lose his job if farmers complain or keep requesting other shearers to do the job.

All done! One naked sheep.
Next is everyone's favorite part: time to feed the lambs! We each get a bottle of milk as the lambs are let out of their pen and eagerly run to find something on which to suckle. They sure went to town on that milk.



Lamb coddling. Of course, the black sheep runs to me.
After the sheep show, we leisurely browsed the farm to see all the cute, cuddly animals.

Black bunny wabbit

Tung and the Alpacas. These guys can live 20 years or more, and they love cats! They will follow cats around.

Petting a ram with a flock of ducks following me around. They must think I have food, but I'm just holding a souvenir ball of wool from the sheep shearing demo.

D'aaawwww! Too cute.

Bristly-furred hawgs

Miniature pony



Goat getting his horns stuck between the fence after curiously investigating me


Emu: Ostrich-like birds

Doh! A deer. A female deer!

Enjoying the Eco-Discovery Trail
We followed up with lunch at the Sheep World cafe after our farm-life excursion. New Zealand has the yummiest ice cream! A favorite beverage is ginger beer--non-alcoholic, like root beer. I'm not a fan of ginger, but there's something refreshing about this sweet, effervescent soft drink.



For our last few days in Auckland, we toured Sylvia Park, one of the major malls in the city. The central plaza was decked out for Christmas. Annoying side note: Parking lots surround the circular mall, and the quickest way to get to each lot/garage is to cut through the center of the mall. However, when it's closing time, the central mall gates get closed, barring access as-the-crow-flies. You therefore would have to go around the outside of the mall, sometimes trekking where there is no sidewalk, to get to where you originally parked. It would be wise to bring an umbrella or raincoat as it ALWAYS rains in Auckland!


Christmas elves hung on Sylvia Park's ceiling

We dropped by this chocolate shop in the mall, attracted by very colorful chocolates filled with creamy, intense, fruity flavors. The girl who worked there was fascinated that we were from America and was more than perplexed as to why we chose "ordinary" New Zealand for our honeymoon destination. She talked a mile a minute to find out what we found to be new and strange about her country and was aghast that we had never heard of the feijoa fruit. She even offered to bring us some from her garden, had we stayed longer. There goes another chance to try a new tropical fruit.


Last dinner at Wagamama, a restaurant in Sylvia Park dishing up yakisoba and other Japanese-influenced noodle dishes.

"Wagamama" in Maori means "Unruly Child"


Last breakfast at a French pastry shop in Downtown Auckland. We thought we'd end with more butter to go full-circle in our trip.


Auckland Takeaways:
  • Rain.
  • Roundabouts everywhere. Driving in the city was more challenging because of the (what we think is) more complex layout of roundabouts. The killer part was figuring which lane to enter when getting into a roundabout so that you don't miss your exit. I never thought I'd miss a traffic light til now.
  • New Zealand has 40 million sheep, more than any country except for Australia. There are 11 sheep for every person in New Zealand.
  • Shearing sheep could save their lives. They get sheered not only so their wool could be exported, but it keeps them from developing Blow Flies that would kill them from infection and disease.
  • At Sheep World, an annual contest is held for who can shear sheep the fastest in a given amount of time. A teenage girl has been the winner for many years straight, and the local boys are dropping out of the competition because they are tired of being shown up by her! 
  • Since sheep could easily learn a routine, to keep the show "fresh" and real, shearers at Sheep World would offer to sheer sheep off other farms. 
  • As you drive along the main highways, you will see signs and billboards advertising chiropractic clinics. Why is this such a big thing? Because sheep shearing is a major profession, and it's very hard on the back to drag heavy sheep, stoop down, hold it in position, and spending the day shearing.
  • Rugby has a huge fan base in New Zealand. Before international games, the NZ team would perform a ritual called "haka," a Maori traditional war cry/dance to intimidate the competition.
  • The New Zealand kiwi is a hard-to-spot nocturnal bird, but there are reserves where you can go and camp out under the direction of a tour guide for kiwi sightings.
  • Feijoa: New Zealand-native fruit that we had not heard of before this trip. Used to make vodka and confections.
  • If you arrive on Air New Zealand, you will get the chance to view a safety video done in the manner of Lord of the Rings, complete with elves, wizards, and dwarves as actors, showing you how to properly put on your seat belt and how to respond in case of emergencies.


2 comments:

Kate Evans said...

Loved seeing all your pictures and reading your stories of your amazing honeymoon! You saw so much and experienced so much. The water in French Polynesia looks incredible. Dave loves New Zealand and wants us to go there to hike and kayak...and now I've added to hang out with some animals to my list. :)

Daisy Luu said...

Yes, farm animals are a must. And you have GOT to try the ice cream there. So good! Travel on, dear Kate!

-Daisy